Hi I’m Christen Dominique and today we’re going to explore some of our favorite makeup products and how they’re made, but first let’s talk about lipstick. Women have been wearing lipstick since what seems the beginning of time. Back in 2500 BC they would crush gemstones and apply it to their lips. Ouch! There is three main categories. There’s matte, satin and semi-matte. The steps for manufacturing are simple. Wax is for structure, oils for moisture and butters for slip and of course pigment for color. The market decides what ingredients are trending in each category from year to year but, the basic elements remain the same.
Ok, so let’s break it down. The three most common waxes used are candelilla, carnauba and beeswax. The most popular wax used is beeswax followed by the two plant-based waxes. Each one is unique in its characteristics and what it brings to the development process. So this wax creates a film and shine and it comes in yellow flakes or pastilles, but the most common are flaked. It has a characteristic smell that is from the leaves of the candelilla of plant and this is a natural base ingredient so the smell can’t be controlled one hundred percent, and this particular wax has a lower melting point of 70 degrees celsius which helps to balance the melting point of harder wax. So for carnauba wax. This wax gives your lipstick structure. It comes in these yellow flakes it also it has a plant like smell and it’s a hard wax with the highest melting point of 82 degrees celsius. This wax is the oldest and most tried and true. It gives creaminess to the lipstick and it helps deposit the product onto the lips, it also aids and protecting the lips and gels together oils which is why it deposits color on the lips and it creates a balm like texture. It comes in white pastilles and this is an animal by-product, but it’s important to know that bees are not harmed when harvesting the wax and it’s the softest wax and it has the lowest melting point between 62 degrees celsius and 64 degrees celsius. Every lipstick must have three different kinds of wax: low, medium and high to create the most stable and functional lipstick. This part of the manufacturing process involves a touch of chemistry. The different wax types and heat levels are combined to create the many lipsticks that you see on the market today. The oils of a lipstick help balance out the rigid feel of a wax and it’s important to use heavier oils to hold the waxes together much like a glue. The heavier the oil, the stickier the product, but it helps the product stay on longer and they have more protective properties. The most common oils used to create a lipstick are jojoba oil, sunflower oil and castor oil. These oils give slip, a light feel and aid in moisturization. Coconut, macadamia and sunflower oil can also be used but they are a little bit heavier.
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